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Long the province of peasants and poor townfolk, pulque has been reborn this century as a buzz of choice among young, forward-leaning and better-heeled urbanites.
For those able to relish its taste and texture — admittedly still a select few — pulque provides a sip of the past, quaffed in the shadow of the modern.
It's also just about $1.65 a pint, and a nearly hangover-proof means of getting hammered.
The team, based at the University of Catania in Sicily, has planted a vineyard near Catania, using tools and techniques that were used by the Romans.